Canapé delle Sette Colline — Sette Bocconi, Sette Storie

Seven bites served on a slate as long as the Arch of Constantine — each bite dedicated to one of Rome's seven hills. From the Capitoline (foie gras mousse with white wine jelly) to the Aventine (Sicilian ricotta and orange blossom honey crostini). Ciccio studied Roman history for three days before building the menu. The sous-chef wrote the hill names on a piece of paper during the meeting.

"Every time I prepare it, I cry a little. It's a form of quality control."