Lumache all'Erbe Siciliane: Ciccio le Ha Provate. Poi Ha Pianto.

Burgundy escargot served not with garlic and parsley butter but with Sicilian extra virgin oil, minced Pantelleria capers, mountain oregano and Sicilian lemon. A version that French guests described as "heretical" and then reordered. Ciccio said he cried the first time he tasted them. Colleagues remember the scene slightly differently.

"Every time I prepare it, I cry a little. It's a form of quality control."